Seiko 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue
Full scan and professional translation
Introduction
A few months ago I completed my series of newsletters - from the perspective of vintage Grand Seiko - on the Seiko catalogues of the 1960’s and 1970’s.
You can find an index to those newsletters here -
Almost all the catalogue scans for the newsletters were taken from my own library, but there were three catalogues that I had never been able to find for sale - the 1969, 1970, and 1971 issues of the Seiko Special Luxury Catalogue.
Fortunately, on a visit to the old Seiko Museum in Tokyo a few years ago, I was able to take colour photocopies of the pages of these three publications that featured vintage Grand Seikos, and is from these photocopies that I took scans for my newsletters.
Following almost a decade of searching, I recently managed to acquire examples of the 1969 and 1970 Special Luxury Catalogues.
The Seiko Special Luxury Catalogues
The Special Luxury Catalogues were published annually from 1969 through to 1975, with Grand Seiko references featuring in all but the latter two issues. These “SLC’s” cover what is arguably the most fascinating period in Seiko’s history, which includes the pinnacle of mechanical watches with the Grand Seiko VFA’s and the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, the introduction of the Seiko Quartz Astron, and the early development years of quartz with references in precious metals and stunning dials.
Whilst the focus of this Substack is of course vintage Grand Seiko, I thought it would be worthwhile celebrating my acquisition of the 1969 and 1970 SLC’s by scanning them in full (this is the first time ever that complete scans of these catalogues have been available), and also paying for a professional translation of the Japanese content.
As we are about to find out, there were grander Seikos than the Grand Seikos.
The Seiko 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue
Front cover
As can be seen from the scan of the front cover, the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue was presented in a vertical format, with the page measuring approximately 12cm wide by 24cm tall.
The Japanese text under “Seiko” translates to “Special Luxury Watch”
The watch featured on the front cover will of course be familiar to all regular readers of this Substack - it is the Grand Seiko 6185-8000 VFA.
Rather than present each page individually, I thought it would make more sense to share the scans as you would see the publication as you were reading it, so each subsequent scan will be a double page spread (this will get interesting when next week I publish the full scans of the 1970 SLC!).
Pages 1 & 2
(Although the catalogue itself does not have page numbers, I will number the pages for ease of reference.)
Turning the page we find the introductory text for the publication, which translates into English as follows -
“Here are a few of SEIKO's selected masterpieces. They are the fruit of a rich tradition of watchmaking and superior technology. Some boast the highest precision, others have a luxurious finish and a taste of art...each is a work of art worthy of the name special luxury wristwatch.
Each one is a masterpiece worthy of the name "Exceptional Luxury Watch" and is sure to satisfy.”
This is where we learn exactly what the intent is behind these catalogues - it is to present the watches from Seiko that excel not just from a technological standpoint, but also in their finishing and artistry. Once we see the content, it’s going to be hard to argue that this is not the case!
Pages 3 & 4
The first watches featured are the initial four Grand Seiko VFA’s.
On the left hand page, we have the two palladium-silver alloy cased references, the 6185-8000 (on bracelet), and 6185-8010 (on strap).
The right hand page features the 6185-8020 (short hands), and 4580-7000.
Note that the reference numbers that we typically use to identify Seiko watches - because they are stamped on the case back - are not the same as the reference numbers that are used in the catalogues, and that dealers would have used when ordering product.
The text at the top of this two page spread translates into English -
“GRAND SEIKO V.F.A.
Grand Seiko specially adjusted products
Accuracy of less than 1 minute per month. This is the highest precision that can be expected from a mechanical watch. The carefully selected parts are assembled and adjusted by our dedicated technicians...and tested under SEIKO's own certification standards, which are even higher than the international level...The accuracy thus created is guaranteed for two years. As the name suggests, this is a luxuriously finished, specially adjusted product. Very Fine-Adjusted.”
Now, I have to point out that this is really interesting indeed, and I think we are going to have to completely change our understanding of what “VFA” actually means.
In the past, I had always been under the impression that “VFA” - “Very Fine Adjusted” - meant that these were watches that had been adjusted, very finely. But this text would seem to say something rather different.
They are very fine watches. That have been specially adjusted.
The “VF” in “VFA” does not refer to the adjustment - it is a description of the quality of the watch, that it is “luxuriously finished”.
Wow. Mind blown!
At the bottom of the page each of the featured watches has a few key details highlighted, along with its retail price.
The translations for that text is as follows -
“6185-014 AAPC (palladium alloy) case ・・・・・・250,000 yen
Features: Automatic winding. Waterproof. Second hand regulator. Hardlex.”
“6185-024 AAPC(Palladium alloy) case・・・・・・170,000yen
Features: Automatic winding. Waterproof. Second hand regulator. Hardlex.”
“6185-030 Stainless steel case・・・・・・100,000 yen
Features: Automatic winding. Waterproof. Second hand regulator. Hardlex.”
“4580-014 Hard stainless steel case: ・・・・・・100,000 yen
Features: Waterproof. Second hand regulator. Hardlex”
Note that only the 4580-7000 is mentioned to have a hardened stainless steel case. This is very odd because I’m pretty sure they all do.
To truly appreciate these incredible references, you really need to watch this video -
Pages 5 & 6
You could make a very strong argument stating that the next two pages in the catalogue debut two watches that should have been presented before the VFA’s. Indeed, when we come to the 1970 SLC, we will see that both of these watches move up the pecking order, and are found earlier in the catalogue than any Grand Seiko (although they do not appear first - perhaps you can guess what does!).
The watch on the right hand page will be familiar to many, but the one on the left is perhaps not so well known.
It is a watch created to show off Seiko’s ability to create a very thin watch, indeed, not just very thin, but “ultra” thin. Here’s the translation of the introductory text -
“SEIKO U.T.D.
Seiko ultra-thin dress watch. This graceful, delicate feeling...1.98mm ultra-thin luxury dress watch. SEIKO's technology has solved the difficult problem of making a thin watch while maintaining the original stability and durability of the watch. The charm of a handmade watch, carefully finished one by one. It truly has the elegance of a craftwork. SEIKO's technology has solved this difficult theme.”
Perhaps due to modern tastes, the UTD - or 68-6000 as it is stamped on the caseback - is not nearly as collectible as the VFA’s or the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, and remarkably, on the rare occassion that one does come to market, they tend to sell for not much more than their original 300,000 Yen retail price. The last one to sell on Yahoo Auctions back in November of last year closed at 368,555 Yen, which frankly is ridiculously cheap!
However, back in the day, clearly this watch would have been seen very differently - as a highly desirable exquisite presentation of the skills of Seiko’s watchmakers to create a movement under 2mm thick, cased in gloriously hand finished 18K yellow gold, with a dial to match.
The text at the bottom of the page translates to -
“6800-016 18K gold case・・・・・・300,000 yen
Features - One-piece case. Hardlex.”
Just think - you could have bought one of these, or for the same price, purchased three 4580-7000 VFA’s. No doubt which would have been the better investment, but perhaps an indication that we shouldn’t always view things from a financial perspective.
Hopefully the next time one of these turns up, they’ll still be largely ignored, and I can pick one up for 350K or so…
On the right hand page, for just 60% of the price of the UTD, is a watch that probably needs no introduction - the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer.
Translating the text at the top of the page to English provides us with the following description -
“SEIKO ASTRONOMICAL
OBSERVATORY CHRONOMETER
Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer
Chronometer testing is conducted at the Neuchâtel Observatory in Switzerland. The test is carried out under a number of strict standards, including accuracy and stability. Only watches that pass the test are awarded the glorious name of "Observatory Chronometer" along with a certificate, which is the result of SEIKO's tireless efforts and superior technology. It is a masterpiece that has an overflowing elegance and reliable accuracy.”
For the full story behind the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, I would encourage you to read Anthony Kable’s great article over at Plus9Time. Suffice to say, this is one of the most important and desirable watches Seiko ever produced.
Interestingly, it is also one of the only Seiko references from this period where we know exactly how many were manufactured.
Whilst the “GSN” in the reference’s catalogue code of 45GSN-016 could be argued is an abbreviation for “Grand Seiko Neuchâtel”, nowhere on the watch - not even on the 4520 or 4580 movements that one finds in these - nor on any of its accompanying accoutrements, be it the inner or outer box, manual, certificate, swing tag, buckle or original strap, can be found the branding “Grand Seiko”.
As such, it is “just” a Seiko. But it just so happens to be a Seiko that trumps any vintage Grand Seiko ever made.
The text at the bottom of the page -
“45GSN-016 18K gold case・・・・・・180,000 yen
Features - Waterproof. Second Hand Regulator. Neuchâtel Observatory Certificate”
Just a brief word on that…
Note that the text states “Neuchâtel Observatory Certificate”. Whether or not that means the watch would have been supplied with a certificate, or simply that one was issued for it (but not sold with it) is not clear. What is evident is that it is extra-ordinarily rare to find an AOC these days that has its original Observatory bulletin.
I have been informed by a couple of Japanese collectors that they believe the official bulletin was not provided with the watch when it was sold, but rather it was sent to the purchaser by Seiko, after the owner had sent in a completed warranty card that is found at the back of the manual.
It would be great to be able to get concrete confirmation on this if at all possible and should anyone have further information, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.
Pages 7 & 8
Reaching the center pages of the catalogue, we are presented with a quintet of solid 18K yellow gold cased Grand Seikos.
On the left hand page, we find the 6146- and 6145-8000’s, and on the right the ever-desirable 6145-8030 with its remarkable hand-hammered case and starlight dial, alongside the 4522- and 4520-8010’s.
At the top of the page, we have some introductory text highlighting the common features of all these references -
“GRAND SEIKO
GRAND SEIKO
The adoption of a high-vibration mechanism that beats ten times every second... and rigorous testing over a continuous period of 300 hours... this pursuit of precision has resulted in a design of the highest prestige. This watch has further polished its elegance with a luxurious finish of 18-karat gold. This is a first-class watch in the Grand Seiko Group, which has an established reputation for stable precision.”
The details for each reference are at the bottom of the two page spread -
“61GAW-010 18K gold case・・・・・・195,000 yen
Features - Automatic winding. Waterproof. Second hand regulator.”
“61GAC-010 18K gold case・・・・・・190,000 yen
Features - Automatic winding. Waterproof. Seconds hand regulator.”
“61GAC-051 18K gold case・・・・・・160,000 yen
Features - Automatic winding. Waterproof. Seconds hand regulator”
“45GSC-030 18K gold case・・・・・・145,000 yen
Features - Waterproof. Second hand regulator. Instantaneous day advance device.”
“45GS-030 18K gold case・・・・・・140,000 yen
Features - Waterproof. Second hand regulator.”
Pages 9 & 10
The next two pages of the catalogue serve as a segue into the ladies watches, presenting two pairs of watches sized for both men and women. Something that I have to admit had completely escaped my notice until reading the translated text -
“SEIKO BRACELET WATCH
Seiko luxury bracelet watch 2559
SEIKO has created the theme of elegance with the full use of its technology. This is the highest peak among dress watches. There are men's and women's versions that come in pairs. SEIKO has created this watch with the theme of elegance.”
Interestingly, whilst marketed as “pair watches”, the watches were clearly available for individual purchase, with each reference in each pair being priced separately.
The left hand page shows the men’s references -
“2559-050 24 jewels. 14K white gold case ・・・・・・195,000 yen”
“2559-060 24 jewels. 14K white gold case ・・・・・・185,000 yen”
And on the right hand page, the women’s equivalents -
“2559 S-407 24 jewels. 14K white gold case ・・・・・・175,000 yen”
“2559 R-105 24 jewels. 14K white gold case ・・・・・・160,000 yen”
The remaining pages of the catalogue feature women’s watches with either 14K white gold or 18K yellow gold cases and bracelets.
Unfortunately my knowledge of women’s Seiko references is pretty much limited to the 19GS series, which are not represented in the catalogue. Given the precious metal cases and bracelets of the watches shown, which range in price from 140,000 Yen to 340,000 Yen (making a women’s watch the most expensive in the entire catalogue), it is perhaps not surprising that the 1964-0010 - despite being in the range at the time this catalogue was produced - didn’t make the cut.
Whilst the first ever women’s Grand Seiko can no doubt be considered a “special watch” (being the first ever watch to feature a ladies sized movement running at 36,000 bph), given it was cased in steel, came on a leather strap, and was priced at just 35,000 Yen, one would be hard pushed to argue that it ticked the “luxury” box!
For the final two two-page spreads featuring these “bracelet watches”, I will simply provide the translation of the Japanese text, without commentary.
Pages 11 & 12
Left hand page -
“2559 S-402 24 jewels. 14K white gold case・・・・・・220,000 yen”
“2559 S-408 24 jewels. 18K gold case: ・・・・・・185,000 yen”
“2559 R-106 24 jewels. 18K gold case: ・・・・・・170,000 yen”
Right hand page -
“SEIKO BRACELET WATCH
Seiko luxury bracelet watch 17QS
The case and band are both made up of gorgeous white gold...a sparkle that will make your heart flutter. This polished design opens up a world of glamorous attire. SEIKO's top-of-the-line women's dress watches convey the joy of fashion. Discover the sense of elegance on your gentle wrist. SEIKO's top quality women's dress watch.”
“17QS R-103 20 jewels. 14K white gold case. With diamonds: ・・・・・340,000 yen”
“17QS S-401 20 jewels. 14K white gold case: ・・・・・・200,000 yen”
Pages 13 & 14
Description (across both pages) -
“SEIKO BRACELET WATCH
Seiko luxury bracelet watch 10qs
The 18-karat gold side is luxurious and tasteful...and the white gold side is sublime...a fashionable watch with a dressy sensibility. Both the band and the case are delicately finished to the highest standards. The result is a watch that is both glamorous, elegant, and sparkling.”
Left hand page -
“10QS A-607 23 jewels. 18K gold case・・・・・・160,000 yen”
“10QS S-402 23 jewels. 18K gold case ・・・・・・160,000 yen”
“10QS R-107 23 jewels. 18K gold case ・・・・・・150,000 yen”
Right hand page -
“10QS S-403 23 jewels. 14K white gold case ・・・・・・230,000 yen”
“10QS A-604 23 jewels. 14K white gold case・・・・・・150,000 yen”
“10QS S-402 23 jewels. 14K white gold case・・・・・・150,000 yen”
“10QS R-104 23 jewels. 14K white gold case・・・・・・140,000 yen”
Back cover
And finally, the back cover, featuring the most expensive watch in the entire catalogue, the ladies 17QS R-103.
Conclusion
And there you have it - the first ever full scan (and translation) of what is probably the most impressive Seiko catalogue ever produced.
Or is it?
Just wait until you see what’s in the 1970 Seiko Special Luxury Catalogue…
A word on copyright
Clearly I don’t own the copyright on these catalogue scans. Any copyright associated with the catalogues themselves will of course be owned by Seiko (although in some territories, that copyright will probably have lapsed by now).
However, in my view, from an ethical standpoint, that doesn’t mean that there is a free for all on the scans presented here.
I paid considerably in excess of US$1,000 to acquire this catalogue; followed by several hours work scanning it and formatting the images; an additional cost to have it professionally translated; and finally a few hours writing up this article. I am more than happy to share the catalogue’s remarkable contents with the community, totally without charge, through this newsletter.
But.
I would respectfully ask that you do not re-host or re-post any of the content presented here on any forum, website, nor in any social media. Unfortunately there are individuals out there who seem to think that they can profit off the hard work of others and take content like this, chop it up, and re-host it on their websites in an attempt to make money out of site visits and their Google Adwords accounts.
Every image in this article has an invisible watermark that will survive all sorts of image manipulation.
The only other place that you will find a copy of this catalogue will be on Anthony Kable’s Plus9Time website, who will be providing a single PDF download for the entire catalogue.
By all means download the images from here, or the PDF from Anthony’s site, for your own personal use. But please - please - do not re-host or hot-link to anything. If you want to discuss the content, you can of course do so here, or wherever else you would like (preferably linking back to this newsletter).
Thank you!
Of the introductory four, the 6185 8020 stuck out like a sore thumb, but was the shape of things to come. Soon VFA would mean rockin’ little steel office watches with formula one engines… Very Fine Adjusted
No sign of King Seiko in this catalogue?