Introduction
Earlier this month I published a newsletter on the Seiko 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue -
Today, it’s the turn of the 1970 edition, and as before, I will be presenting scans of the entire catalogue and discussing its contents, along with a full professional translation into English of the text.
The Special Luxury Catalogues were published annually from 1969 through to 1975, with Grand Seiko references featuring in all but the latter two issues. These “SLC’s” cover what is arguably the most fascinating period in Seiko’s history, which includes the pinnacle of mechanical watches with the Grand Seiko VFA’s and the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, the introduction of the Seiko Quartz Astron, and the early development years of quartz with references in precious metals and stunning dials.
I closed my article on the 1969 SLC with the following comment -
“And there you have it - the first ever full scan (and translation) of what is probably the most impressive Seiko catalogue ever produced.
Or is it?
Just wait until you see what’s in the 1970 Seiko Special Luxury Catalogue…”
Well, the wait is over!
The Seiko 1970 Special Luxury Catalogue
Front cover
Whilst the dimensions of the Seiko 1970 Special Luxury Catalogue, at 12.4cm by 24.4cm are very similar to those for the 1969 edition, 1970’s SLC is presented in a landscape format, not portrait.
Additionally, as we will shortly see, there are two pages of the catalogue that are presented as a trifold.
The front cover of the catalogue is silver in colour, with Seiko proudly embossed on it in letters that are 45mm high - no doubting whose catalogue this is!
The Japanese text on the cover translates to “Special Luxury Wristwatch”.
Pages 1 & 2
(Once again, as with the 1969 edition, the catalogue itself does not have page numbers, but I will number the pages for ease of reference.)
As with the earlier catalogue, we are first presented with some introductory text explaining the publication’s contents. Note the reversed embossed “Seiko” from the front cover on the upper page.
The Japanese text translates as follows -
“Solid accuracy and elegant design. The top watchmaker in the world, SEIKO, proudly offers a variety of well honed and hand-picked masterpieces. Each of them is a stunning expression of the watchmaking industry's enduring legacy and cutting-edge technology. Some of them exude the utmost elegance, while others are tastefully designed and finished. All are deserving of the moniker "exceptional luxury wristwatch." See these physical masterpieces' brilliance on your own wrist.”
Clearly Seiko were feeling very confident at the beginning of the 1970’s - no sign of the famous Japanese trait for modesty and understatement in that introduction!
Under the Seiko cartouche is the text -
“Hattori Watch Company Headquarters/Ginza, Tokyo”
Pages 3 & 4 (trifold closed)
Ok so right away my page numbering has the potential to get a little confusing, but I have decided to stick with the way that the catalogue would be read as you turn over the pages, and present the scans in the same manner.
You may recall that the first watches presented in the 1969 SLC were a quartet of Grand Seiko VFA’s. Given the epoch defining launch of the Seiko Quartz Astron on Christmas Day 1969 - too late to be included in the 1969 catalogue - it is not surprising to find an Astron headlining the 1970 SLC.
We will see the original Astron - the time only 35SQ - when we open up the trifold page. The lead watch in this catalogue is the 35SQC - basically an Astron with an added date complication - that debuted in the range early in 1970.
The descriptive text above the photograph of the watch translates to -
“By successfully adapting the quartz crystal oscillation principle, which maintains stable high precision, to wristwatches and making full use of SEIKO's cutting-edge precision machining and electronics technology, the SEIKO QUARTZ ultra-high precision quartz oscillation type electronic wristwatch was created. The stable oscillation of the quartz crystal, which produces such great precision, is simply astounding. It is an historic timepiece that represents the age of electronics.”
And below the image are a few highlights of the reference, along with its price -
“35SQC-016 18K gold case・・・・・・480,000yen
<8,192 vibrations><step motor drive><battery lasts more than 1 year>”
The second page that we see here features a watch that will be familiar from the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue - the Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer.
Although the text description is very similar to what we find in the earlier catalogue, there are a few differences, the first of which is found in the Japanese text immediately under the name of the reference. This text translates as follows -
“Seiko Neuchatel Observatory Chronometer
Certified Product”
Why Seiko chose to change “Astronomical” to “Neuchatel” is anyone’s guess, but it is an interesting nuance. The description that follows translates to -
“Chronometer testing conducted at the Neuchatel Observatory in Switzerland.
The chronometer test is conducted at the Neuchatel Observatory in Switzerland and is based on a number of strict standards, such as accuracy and stability. SEIKO's tireless efforts and superior technology have produced a glorious timepiece that has passed the test and been awarded a certificate. It is a work of art that exudes overflowing elegance and trustworthy accuracy.”
Below the photo of the watch is the standard information providing the reference number, price, and a few high level details -
“45GSN-016 18K gold case・・・・・・180,000 yen
<Waterproof><Seconds Hand Regulator><Neuchatel Observatory Certificate>”
It’s worth taking a moment to reflect on the significance of the presentation of these two pages of this catalogue.
The introduction of the Seiko Quartz Astron on Christmas Day 1969 was arguably the most significant event in the entire history of horology. It marked the dawn of an new era, introducing watches that were as precise over the course as a month, as those that came before them were over the course of a day.
The Seiko Astronomical Observatory Chronometer was I believe at its time the most precise mechanical wristwatch made in series and presented for sale to the public, with the average Observatory Bulletin “N-score” achieved by the AOC’s easily besting that of Girard-Perregaux’s 32A caliber Chronometer HF’s.
Yet just one year after its introduction it is relegated to play second fiddle behind the new leader, the Quartz Astron.
There is no doubt in my mind that this catalogue was specifically designed to show that not only had a horological page been turned figuratively, but also, it would turn literally, because this is where the trifold comes into play -
Pages 3 & 4 - trifold open
After contemplating the presentation of the Astron and the AOC, the reader of catalogue then opens up the trifold and consigns the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer to history.
Now the reader is presented with just a quartz offering. The 35SQC, and revealed by opening the fold in the page, the original 35SQ Astron, and below it, the enigmatic 36SQC.
The Seiko 1970 Special Luxury Catalogue is the only catalogue Seiko ever produced that features not just all, but any of these three references. We can see now why the introductory text for the 35SQC was generic, rather than specific to that reference, because in this presentation of the three watches when the page is folded out, it clearly is applicable to all of them.
The text under the 35SQ and the 36SQC translates as follows -
“35SQ-016 18K gold case・・・・・・450,000yen
<8,192 vibrations><step motor drive><battery lasts more than 1 year>”
“36SQC-011 Stainless steel case・・・・・・215,000yen
<16,384 vibrations><Electromagnetic transducer drive><3 year battery life>”
This latter watch, the 36SQC-011, is a real mystery. Whilst it features prominently in Seiko literature of the period, such as on the front cover of the January 1971 issue of Seiko Sales (the monthly magazine distributed to Seiko authorised dealers) -
- and despite the fact some sources on the internet claim that perhaps 1,000 examples of the reference were manufactured, I have not been able to find a single example of the model existing outside of the one that is on display at Seiko’s museum in Tokyo.
In the scan above from the article in the January 1971 issue of Seiko Sales, we can see that the performance claims for the 36SCQ are considerably better than those of the Astron. The increase in crystal frequency to 16,384 Hz leads to a monthly accuracy improvement from +/-5 seconds a month in the Astron, to +/-3 seconds per month for the 36SQC.
Additionally, the use of a MOS-IC (Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Integrated Circuit) to halve the frequency output of the quartz crystal, fourteen times, to produce the 1 Hz signal necessary for chronometry, leads to a significant improvement in power consumption, although you will note from the photographs of the modules in the above scan, that the 36SQC makes use of two battery cells to achieve its claimed 3 year battery life.
Despite the prominent promotion of the 36SCQ in both the 1970 Special Luxury Catalogue and the 1971 issue of Seiko Sales, it would seem that for some reason or other, the reference never actually made it to retail. Seiko on their primary group history timeline proudly refer to the reference as being the first quartz watch developed with a CMOS-IC (Complementary-metal-oxide-semiconductor), but this is actually not correct. The IC is based on MOS technology, not CMOS. I suspect the use here of the word “developed”, rather than “launched” is the hint that the watch, indeed, never got to market.
Pages 5 and 6 - trifold open
Whether or not one folds away the trifold before turning the page is I suppose up to the reader of the catalogue, but I think it’s interesting to leave it unfolded when turning over.
Presented below the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer is the watch came immediately before it in the 1969 SLC, the 18K gold cased “Ultra Thin Dress Watch”.
Here it is shown next to a watch featuring the same 68A caliber movement, but in a stainless steel case, the 6800-030. Clearly between the first two Special Luxury Catalogues Seiko were able to increase production of this movement to the extent that they were able to offer a more affordable way to acquire it, but even in the steel case, the price was still an astonishing 170,000 Yen.
With the benefit of hindsight it is of course odd to think that for just another 10,000 Yen one could have purchased the solid 18K gold cased Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, but it just goes to show just how expensive the 68A caliber was to produce, and when you take a look at one, it’s not surprising.
Although the example pictured above is uncased and has been clearly knocked about a bit in its lifetime, you can still get a sense of just how much effort was put into the finishing of this remarkable movement.
The description in the catalogue translates as follows -
“Seiko ultra-thin dress watch.
This 1.98mm luxury dress watch is extremely thin. The challenging task of creating a thin watch while keeping the original stability and longevity of the watch has been accomplished by SEIKO's outstanding technology. This watch's appeal is that each component is painstakingly completed by hand. It definitely exudes the grace of a handcrafted piece. The watch's case is composed entirely of stainless steel.”
[The translation provided was a little odd in the final sentence so I have edited it somewhat.]
The details of the two wristwatches shown translate to the following in English -
“6800-030 Stainless steel case ・・・・・・170,000 yen
<One-piece case> <Hardlex>
6800-016 18K gold case: ・・・・・・300,000 yen
<One-piece case> <Hardlex>”
Below the two ultra-thin wristwatches is pictured an ultra-thin pocket watch utilising the same movement, the 6800-020 -
“6800-020 silver case: ・・・・・・200,000 yen
<Sapphire glass>”
Pages 7 & 8
Just one of the quartet of Grand Seiko VFA’s that made their debut in the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue makes an appearance a year later, the 6185-030 - pictured here on the right of the upper page.
It is joined by three VFA’s making their catalogue debut, one of which - the 4580-020 (or 4580-7010 if we go by its movement-case reference number) - makes its sole catalogue appearance in this publication.
The 18K gold cased 6185-046 (6185-7000 movement-case reference) only ever appeared in this and the 1971 SLC, whereas the 6185-050 (confusingly, sharing the same movement-case reference of 6185-8020 with the 6185-030) would appear in the same two SLC’s, and also the second volume of the regular 1971 Seiko catalogue.
The description at the top of the first page is exactly the same as that used in the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue -
“GRAND SEIKO V.F.A.
Grand Seiko specially adjusted products
Accuracy of less than 1 minute per month. This is the highest precision that can be expected from a mechanical watch. The carefully selected parts are assembled and adjusted by our dedicated technicians...and tested under SEIKO's own certification standards, which are even higher than the international level...The accuracy thus created is guaranteed for two years. As the name suggests, this is a luxuriously finished, specially adjusted product. Very Fine-Adjusted.”
The details provided for the four featured watches are as follows -
6185-046 18K gold case・・・・・・260,000 yen
<Automatic winding><Waterproof><Second hand regulator>
6185-050 Stainless steel case: ・・・・・・100,000 yen
<Automatic winding<Waterproof><Seconds hand regulator><Hardlex>
6185-030 Stainless steel case: ・・・・・・100,000 yen
<Automatic winding<Waterproof><Seconds hand regulator><Hardlex>
4580-020 stainless steel case: ・・・・・・85,000 yen
<Waterproof> <Second hand regulator> <Hardlex>
Pages 9 & 10
As in the 1969 catalogue, in addition to the VFA’s, we are presented with a selection of 18K gold cased Grand Seikos.
By the end of 1970, when the catalogue would have been published, Grand Seiko had almost completed the “upgrade” from the 61GS series to the new 56GS series, and the three 61GS references that featured in the 1969 SLC are replaced by two new 18K gold cased 56GS models, the 5645-7005 and 5646-7005 (the time only 5641-7005 would not be introduced into the range for almost another year).
The 45GS references remain as the manual wind option in the range, with the 4520-8010 and 4522-8010 making their second appearance in the Special Luxury Catalogue.
“Grand Seiko
The use of a high-vibration mechanism...rigorous testing over 360 hours of continuous operation...this pursuit of precision has borne fruit in the design of this prestigious watch. This watch has further sharpened its elegance with a luxurious finish of 18K gold side. This is a first-class watch from the Grand Seiko Group, which has an established reputation for stable precision.”
“56GAC-010 18K gold case・・・・・・180,000 yen
<Automatic winding><Waterproof><Second hand regulator>
56GAW-010 18K gold case・・・・・・185,000 yen
<Automatic winding><Waterproof><Seconds hand regulator><Calendar Japanese-English switching device>
45GS-030 18K gold case: ・・・・・・140,000 yen
<Waterproof><With second hand regulator>
45GSC-030 18K gold case・・・・・・145,000 yen
<Waterproof><Seconds hand regulator><Instantaneous day advance device>”
Pages 11 & 12
The next two pages of the catalogue feature four bracelet watches based on the 2559 caliber.
In the 1969 SLC, the 2559’s were introduced with “pair watches”, where both men’s and women’s watches with a similar design were presented on the same spread. For the 1970 SLC, the same two men’s watches make a return on the bottom of this spread, with two new men’s references on the top page. The women’s watches will come later in the catalogue.
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 2559
The culmination of SEIKO's technology, which was developed around the idea of elegance, is this beautiful and bright design. The case, band, dial, hands, and other components of the watch all exhibit the same beauty and brilliance. A magnificent and fashionable watch is created with exquisite and lavish attention to every last detail. It has a sumptuous feel and is a luxury watch.”
With both cases and bracelets made from 14K white gold, it is unsurprising that all four watches featured on these pages come in at more than the 180,000 Yen price of the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, which was only presented on a leather strap.
“2559-210 24 jewels 14K white gold case・・・・・・280,000 yen
2559-220 24 jewels 14K white gold case: ・・・・・・260,000 yen
2559-050 24 jewels 14K white gold case: ・・・・・・195,000 yen
2559-060 24 jewels 14K white gold case: ・・・・・・185,000 yen”
Pages 13 & 14
Similarly to the overall structure of the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue, we bridge to the ladies watches with a two page spread of “pair watches”, this time branded as UTD’s, based on the 6800 movement.
“Seiko Ultra-Thin Dress Watch
The elegant brilliance of Seiko watches is so graceful that it seems to convey the pride and joy of the wearer directly to his or her left arm. The Seiko ultra-thin dress watches for men and women are elegantly designed so that the pair can enjoy the delicate feel that is only possible with a Seiko ultra-thin dress watch. The watches are available in a range of elegant designs for both men and women.”
“6800-041 18K gold case - 580,000 yen
6800-051 18K gold case - 480,000 yen
6800-040 14K white gold case - 580,000 yen
6800-050 14K white gold case - 480,000 yen”
Sadly by now almost all examples of these references have disappeared, their cases and bracelets being melted down for scrap value. The photograph of the 68A movement that I shared earlier in this newsletter is actually originally from the reference 6800-041 pictured - something I only discovered in the course of writing this article.
And of course, it’s not just the movement that is ultra-thin on an ultra-thin-dresswatch. How’s this for a handset?!
Pages 15 & 16 - trifold closed
Moving onto the women’s watches in the catalogue, the first creations presented are bejeweled references featuring the 17QS movement.
The most expensive watch in the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue was a ladies watch priced at 340,000 Yen. Well, what a difference a year makes - just look at that 17QS R-108, retailing at an astonishing 1,200,000 Yen. Let’s see what we can learn from the description -
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 17QS
The gorgeous sparkle of 64 diamonds. The fantastic lapis lazuli gem dial...its brilliant and elegant sparkle is like a bouquet of jewels.
17QS R-10817QS R-108 20 jewels, 18K gold case - 1,200,000 yen”
And there you have it - no fewer than 64 diamonds set in an 18K gold bracelet, and with a lapis lazuli dial.
It is perhaps not surprising that to the best of my knowledge, this is the first time this watch has ever been pictured on the internet. Has anyone ever seen one?
On the lower half of the double page spread is a slightly more subtle, but no less impressive watch that features a bezel encrusted with diamonds and sapphires -
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 17QS
The enigmatic brilliance of 10 azure blue sapphires and the opulent dazzle of 10 marquise-shaped diamonds are used to decorate this masterpiece.
17QS S-404 20 jewels, 14K white gold case: 680,000 yen”
Pages 15 & 16 - trifold open
Opening up the trifold and rather than discovering additional references, we are instead treated to a double page photo of the lead watch. It’s hard not to forgive the indulgence with a piece like this!
Pages 17 & 18 - trifold open
Once again, keeping the trifold open when we turn the page means we see a watch for the second time. Accompanying the 17QS S-404 is another reference with a diamond and sapphire bezel -
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 17QS
Nine blue sapphires, each with a mystic brilliance, and nine diamonds, each with a rich sparkle, form a magnificent contrast. This watch's characteristic feature is the dial, which has a delicate wood-grain tone.
17QS R-109, 20 jewels, 14K white gold case: 600,000 yen”
Sadly that “delicate wood-grain” toned dial is not visible in the image. Fingers crossed one turns up somewhere one day so we can get a close look at it.
Leaving the “haute joaillerie” pieces behind, next up are a pair of watches with 18K yellow and 14K white gold cases and bracelets -
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 17QS
The case and bracelet are made up of a luxurious gold and a graceful white gold. The sparkle of this watch is sure to make your heart flutter. This well-honed design opens up a world of elegance. SEIKO's finest women's dress watch that conveys the joy of fashion. Please try it on your own wrist to confirm.
17QS S-406 20 jewels 18k gold case・・・・・・200,000 yen
17QS S-405 20 jewels, white gold case・・・・・190,000 yen”
Pages 19 & 20
I can’t help thinking someone made a bit of a layout error here, as the upper page continues the 17QS offering, but with no headline description - you need to refer back to the previous page for the background. A little odd.
“17QS S-403 20jewels 18k gold case ・・・・・・200,000 yen
17QS S-403 20jewels 14k white gold case・・・190,000 yen”
The bottom page of spread features a pair of more affordable references based on the 11S caliber -
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 11s
You may start having trendy fun the moment you grasp this stunning watch in your hands. The elegant 18K gold case's design. The exquisite look of the 14K white gold case and the 18K gold case's charming design. Both watches have been meticulously designed and finished.
11S R-120, 21 jewels, 18K gold case: ・・・・・・95,000 yen
11S R-115, 21 jewels, 14K white gold case・・・・ 85,000 yen”
Pages 21 & 22
Next up are a trio of watches based on the 10QS movement (I have to profess I have absolutely no idea what the specifications of any of these ladies calibers are!).
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 10QS
14K white gold case with elegance. It is a fashionable watch with a dressy feel. Both the band and the case are delicately finished to the highest quality standards. The result is a watch that will surely satisfy your needs for glamour and elegance.
10QS A-604 23 jewels, 14K white gold case: 150,000 yen
10QS S-402 23 jewels, 14K white gold case: 150,000 yen
10QS R-104 23 jewels, 14K white gold case: 140,000 yen”
Pages 23 & 24
Earlier we saw a collection of men’s watches with the 2559 caliber, and here we see the women’s watches based on the same movement, some of which could be paired with the men’s references as they are almost identical in design.
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch 2559
The case, band, dial, hands, and every other detail have been crafted with grace and delicacy. The best dress watch is this one. Verify the sleek and stunning brilliance on your wrist.
2559 S-402 24 jewels, 14K white gold case: 220,000 yen
2559 R-107 24 stones, 14K white gold case: 200,000 yen
2559 S-409 24 jewels, 14K white gold case: 195,000 yen
2559 S-405 24 jewels, 14K white gold case: 150,000 yen
2559 R-102 24 jewels, 14K white gold case: 140,000 yen”
Pages 25 & 26
And finally, four watches utilising the “UN” caliber (nope, I have no idea either).
“Seiko Special Bracelet Watch UN
The best mechanism, the smallest in size, with an elegant design. The atmosphere is enhanced by the gracefully shimmering sapphire glass. a stylish and essential component of any dressy clothing. This watch will meet your expectations.
UN R-128 21 jewels, 18K gold case: ・・・・・・120,000 yen
UN R-128 21 jewels, 14K white gold case・・・・115,000 yen
UN R-127 21 jewels, 18k gold case: ・・・・・・120,000 yen
UN R-127 21 jewels, 14K white gold case・・・・115,000 yen”
Back cover
Not a lot to be said about that really!
Conclusion
Well I don’t know about you, but I reckon this one trumps even the 1969 Special Luxury Catalogue.
Whilst the earlier SLC is arguably of more interest purely from the perspective of vintage Grand Seiko - with it being the catalogue that launched the VFA’s - I think it’s hard to argue against the 1970 Special Luxury Catalogue being the more significant.
Not only is it the sole Seiko catalogue to feature the most important wristwatch of the 20th Century - the Quartz Astron - for me it goes above and beyond that in the manner that it presents the watch directly against the Astronomical Observatory Chronometer, and then with a simply ingenious piece of catalogue design, the reader actually takes part in the handing over of the baton by folding away the AOC to reveal more quartz references.
Yes, the AOC was an astonishing accomplishment, but it was consigned to history almost as soon as it was launched.
In the immortal words of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori -
“Always one step ahead of the rest.”
Oh, and before I sign off, as mentioned in passing above, it is also the only Seiko catalogue to feature what I consider the greatest mechanical wristwatch of all time - the Grand Seiko 4580-7010 VFA. Arguably the catalogue photo doesn’t do the watch justice, so what better excuse than to finish with this?
A word on copyright
Clearly I don’t own the copyright on these catalogue scans. Any copyright associated with the catalogues themselves will of course be owned by Seiko (although in some territories, that copyright will probably have lapsed by now).
However, in my view, from an ethical standpoint, that doesn’t mean that there is a free for all on the scans presented here.
Having searched high and low for over 7 years, I finally managed to acquire an example, and paid a considerable amount of money to acquire this catalogue; followed by several hours work scanning it and formatting the images; an additional cost to have it professionally translated; and finally a few hours writing up this article. I am more than happy to share the catalogue’s remarkable contents with the community, totally without charge, through this newsletter.
But.
I would respectfully ask that you do not re-host or re-post any of the content presented here on any forum, website, nor in any social media. Unfortunately there are individuals out there who seem to think that they can profit off the hard work of others and take content like this, chop it up, and re-host it on their websites in an attempt to make money out of site visits and their Google Adwords accounts.
Every image in this article has an invisible watermark that will survive all sorts of image manipulation.
The only other place that you will find a copy of this catalogue will be on Anthony Kable’s Plus9Time website, who will be providing a single PDF download for the entire catalogue.
By all means download the images from here, or the PDF from Anthony’s site, for your own personal use. But please - please - do not re-host or hot-link to anything. If you want to discuss the content, you can of course do so here, or wherever else you would like (preferably linking back to this newsletter).
Thank you!
Always good to see the 8020 VFA’s pictured side by side. Also the nice to see the 7010 in there, the then Rodney Dangerfield of super watches
Great work (you and Seiko)!