Introduction
Last week I published the first of two newsletters that detail the evidence for what the correct buckles are for vintage Grand Seikos.
The previous newsletter explained the challenges in establishing which buckles go with which watches, and what evidence we might be able to call on in order to come to reasonable conclusions as to what is “correct”.
If you have not already read last week’s newsletter - that detailed the buckles for the first, 57GS, 62GS, 44GS and 61GS series - I would encourage you to read it before proceeding with this one, since the introduction to that aritcle sets the context for this investigation.
A few collectors got in touch following the publication of the newsletter mentioning that they had been told by some dealers that different buckles were correct other than those that I highlighted. Whilst when it comes to establishing “facts” regarding historical Seiko watches there can be conflicting viewpoints on subjects such as this, I must stress that the information that is shared in these newsletters is based purely on my own research into contemporaneous Seiko publications; and into examples of watches that have surfaced - be it offered publicly in the market, or residing in collections - over the last decade or so.
I am more than happy to revise the “facts” presented in these newsletters should new evidence present itself, but that evidence does need to be grounded in something. Simply because in recent times certain references have been sold with particular buckles by certain people does not suffice. I would not for one moment suggest there is any deliberate malice or subterfuge involved, just that there are honest mistakes being made.
I will explain the background as to what may well be behind this confusion in part 3 (I had planned to include it here, but have run out of time and space), but for now, let’s crack on with part 2, and look at the buckles used for the 45GS, 56GS, and 19GS references.
45GS
452x-7000/452x-8000
Whilst the 45GS series debuted in the supplement to the 1968 number 2 Seiko catalogue with the 4520- and 4522-8000’s in steel and cap gold cases, it is not until the following year where we can find images of watches from the 45GS series showing buckles.
The above scan is from the special supplement to the June 1969 issue of Seiko Sales, which features a number of references from both the Grand and King Seiko families.
Whilst the page shows both 452x-8000 and 452x-7000 references, unfortunately it is only the latter pair where we can see the buckle - and it’s the same one that also features on the 614x-8000 references in the same publication.
I believe it is perfectly reasonable to assume that at least up until this time, the 452x-8000 references would also have been presented on the same buckle. Here is a photo from an auction for a true full set “dead stock” example of a 4520-8000 in cap gold to support this conjecture (the watch dates from September 1968) -
As we saw with the 614x-8000 references however, things aren’t quite as simple as that.