Buddy, I'm counting to three.

One, two, three. There, I did it for you.

Good morning!

Or whichever salutation works in the timezone when you are reading this.

Time is most definitely at the forefront of my mind today, as I have less than 3 hours to get this newsletter out before I have to head down to the beach to witness the high tide. Yup, that’s what counts as entertainment around these parts, and I wouldn’t ask for anything more!

This week sees us on the slow but steady trek back to normalcy on Yahoo Japan Auctions after the Christmas and New Year holidays, with the number of listings in the Grand Seiko category back above 3,000 (but only just). But that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of listings worth highlighting - quite the opposite in fact.

So, given the urgency today, let’s get right into it without further ado.

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Adam Clay

Grand Seiko 5646-7005

This listing for an 18K gold vintage Grand Seiko from the 56GS series is particularly interesting not just because the watch itself looks to be a nice example of the reference (don’t be too put off by the very harsh light reflecting of the case in the later photos - from this lead shot it looks like the case retains its original brushed finish), but because of the box that is being sold with it.

I am fairly confident that Seiko would have only ever used this design of box for watches on a metal bracelet. Assuming there are no nasty “Quartz” surprises to be found on the inside, it is possible that this is the correct box for the watch being sold, but that the watch was originally sold with the 18K solid gold bracelet.

What’s really weird is that I dug out the box for my 18K 5646-8000 and immediately thought that no, it can’t be the same box, because from above, you can the very obvious angled sides of the upper portion of my box as it tapers towards the top surface.

And then I took a photo of it trying to emulate a similar angle to that in the auction listing…

… and those tapered sides just disappear. Turns out we can only perceive them from a top-down view because we have stereo vision. As soon as you shoot it with a camera centered on the width of the box, they vanish. How bizarre is that!

Here’s a view from the corner - the angle of the sides of the box lid is the same as that for the front of it.

So I guess that’s another bonus that the Apple Vision Pro will bring to the party when it gets released in a few short weeks with its stereo cameras and “3D” playback of photos and videos.

As with all watches with the 5646 movement, always assume that they will need a service to fix the day/date mechanism unless the description explicitly states that it is functioning correctly. Here, the seller states “I am not sure about normal operation when crossing 12 o’clock”, so I think it’s safe to assume it’s broken.

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Grand Seiko 5646-7005

Yup, another one. And this time with the correct original 18K buckle (which rather frustratingly the seller devotes more photos to than the actual watch itself).

And with regards to those photos, I suspect that the rather weird texture we can see on the lugs is actually a reflection of the lighting setup that was used for the images, and not indicative of an actual texture on the lugs themselves.

Checking the reflection in the caseback, it does indeed look like some kind of narrow strip-lighting has been used -

Most bizarre, but I need to be wary of this week’s newsletter turning into a photography tutorial, so will leave it at that!

What’s fascinating about the two auctions is that the watches are only 8 serial numbers apart!

The off-centered day in the images is exactly what one would expect for one of these movements at a few minutes to 1am, so don’t be put off by that. However, again the seller does not explicitly mention that the day/date mechanism is functioning correctly, so work on the usual assumption.

Hard to pick between these two quality-wise because these are not easy references to shoot “properly” in such a manner that the images truly communicate the condition of the case, but I’d certainly recommend this example over the earlier one because you have the benefit of it being supplied with the correct buckle.

I just wouldn’t recommend picking this up in person from the seller though. Those gloves scare me.

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Grand Seiko 5645-7005

Ok this is getting silly. Another 564x-7005?!

The seller lists this with a question in the title - “Dead Stock item”? Well, no - certainly not in the way that it is presented on an aftermarket strap with an aftermarket buckle.

But, the watch itself does look to be in remarkable condition, and that caseback sticker could well be original.

Highly recommended. And if you’re looking for a “suitable” buckle (but not fussed about whether or not it is the correct buckle for the reference)…

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Early type buckle for the Grand Seiko 452x-8010

I go into great depths regarding the correct buckles for the 45GS and 56GS references in 18K gold in this article -

To save you the bother of looking it up though, this is a very well worn example of the early type buckle used for the 4520/4522-8010. Here’s what it would have looked like when new -

Although it’s not correct for the later 56GS, it would make some sense to pick this one up if you do chase that minty 5645-7005 listed above.

Obviously though, it would be preferable to see this being paired up with an example of the reference for which it was originally intended!

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The first Grand Seiko with carved logo dial

I so desperately wanted to discover that those marks are actually on the crystal and not the dial, but nope, sadly when checking the parallax between the images it is clear that they are on the dial -

It really is such a shame, but I thought I’d include it anyway because perhaps someone out there knows someone who would be brave enough to take this on and try to clean up the dial. Maybe they’re just on the surface and they would clean up? But I guess that really is wishful thinking and actually, if you zoom in some more and look really carefully…

That’s definitely a deep gouge on the dial itself. Ugh. How on earth did that happen?

Crown is wrong, of course, but apart from that, everything is correct.

Included more out of pity than as a recommendation to purchase :(

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Grand Seiko 5722-9970 Toshiba commemorative 1967

If you can look past the slightly smudgy print on the dial, this is a nice sharp example of the 1967 Toshiba commemorative that I am pretty certain is presented with its original buckle, although not in its original box.

The smudged print will no doubt put quite a few people off, so for anyone who is looking to put together a full set of the Toshiba’s, this might be a bit of a bargain pick-up, and you get 20,000 Yen’s worth of box included as a bonus.

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Grand Seiko 6185-8021 VFA

I’ve lost count as to how many times this one has been listed - this I think is actually the second time this week, as earlier in the week it was put up on a 24 hour auction that the seller canceled.

Clearly only recommended for those who are looking to nab a VFA for spares, but if you win the auction, don’t be surprised if the seller cancels and relists it again.

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The first Grand Seiko with carved logo dial

I almost skipped including this one, because although it would be considerably improved simply by replacing the extremely scratched up crystal, there do remain a couple of issues to content with. But, it’s a carved logo dial first, and when one of these turns up that raises some questions, it’s good to get those questions out there, rather than just dismissing the listing and not bothering to include it.

First up is that you can’t assume that all the significant frontal issues will be fixed with a new crystal. Yes, the dial shows the spotting that is only to be expected, but that spotting does look to be rather more severe than one might hope for.

But the biggest problem with the dial could be quite easily overlooked, and that’s the significant damage at its periphery near the 12 and 2 indices (the latter of which is somewhat hidden by the light reflection on the crystal in the first image).

The other thing that concerns me somewhat is whether or not the caseback medallion is original.

The contrast in colour between it, and the caseback itself, is way more obvious than I am used to seeing, but at the same time, I’ve never come across a reproduction early medallion looking (otherwise) anywhere near as good as this before.

The medallions not being quite large enough to fill the hole created to hold them is normal, but the gaps here are a little larger than one might expect.

It could well be down to the lighting and processing of the image, and I am actually veering towards believing it could be legit, but I certainly wouldn’t bet on it.

Finally, this is another example of the first Grand Seiko whose second hand tail is just straight, and not triangular shaped as we are used to seeing. As I have mentioned previously, there are people in Japan who believe that both types of hands were legitimately used back in the day, but I have my doubts.

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Grand Seiko 6146-8050 white dial

Yes the image are rather poorly lit, but they do allow us to discern that this is a pretty sharp example of the reference.

Case edges look to be very sharp and well defined. Clearly there are plenty of minor dings and scratches to show that it has been worn extensively over the years, but crucially there would appear to have been no major effort expended in trying to hide them.

The crystal also looks to be in superb condition, and although the lighting might be hiding some minor scratches (I certainly can’t discern any), what is clear is that the crystal edges are sharp, remain free from chips, and definitely have not been polished.

The bracelet is incorrect, but to be honest I’m not fan of the original one - yes, aesthetically it looks great, but I just don’t find it particularly comfortable.

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Grand Seiko 6245-9001

Last week’s newsletter featured a couple of 62GS that both left quite a bit to be desired. This week however we are presented with a really great example.

This 6245-9001 has pretty much everything going for it with regards the details you would be examining when looking for a 62GS to add to your collection. Superbly preserved clean dial? Check. Handset and indices showing little to no sign of degarding? Check. Sharp caselines with really well defined lugs, showing no sign of any major attempt to buff out nicks and scratches? Check.

It’s not perfect of course, but it’s damn good.

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Grand Seiko 5722-9011

From the same trustworthy seller as the listing above, this is a lovely example of a cap gold 57GS. It’s rare for the dials on these to age this well, and - with the proviso of course that it is never fair to expect a cap gold case to be as sharp as a steel one - the case is also in great condition.

A cap gold 57GS will never be at the top of any collector’s wants list, but that just makes them great value, and there surely can be no denying that it’s a very, very attractive watch?

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It’s not a vintage Grand Seiko, but I like it

Seiko SBWA002

This year is both the 25th anniversary of the debut of Spring Drive, and the 20th anniversary of the first Grand Seiko Spring Drive.

The watch featured here is from that debut 25 years ago, and is one of three references in different metals that launched one of the most significant developments in horology of all time.

The three references were the SBWA001 - in stainless steel and with an integrated bracelet, in an edition of just 500 pieces; the watch seen here, SBWA002 - in 18K gold on a strap, in an edition of 300 pieces; and finally, the Credor GBLG999 - in pure platinum (proudly - if perhaps arguably unfortunately - proclaimed on the dial), in an edition of 100 pieces.

It is very likely that the anniversaries will be celebrated with the launch of some very special Spring Drive watches at Watches and Wonders in Geneva in April, which may cause a rise of interest in these very early pieces which, if you ask me, have never been fully appreciated for the landmark watches that they are.

I’ve never researched this reference in any detail, but I do believe from having a look at a handful of previous auction listings that the clasp shown here is original to the watch. If anyone knows for certain one way or another, please do let us all know in the chat below.

The most recent example of one of these coming auction was in November last year, and the auction closed for 665,000 Yen.

This one looks to be in super condition and comes with its original instructions, warranty, and box (although sadly the box has degraded quite substantially over the last quarter of a century).

If you’re planning to visit Watches and Wonders this year, I cannot think of a more suitable watch to be wearing when visiting the Grand Seiko stand.

They’re coming…

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Lazarus

Grand Seiko 4522-7000

This is one of those listings that I added to my watchlist earlier in the week thinking it looked kinda-ok at first glance, but would need closer inspection when I came to write it up.

That dial just looks way too “clean” for one of these, and sure enough, when you take a closer look, it’s clear that the dial has been reprinted, and I suspect somehow chemically washed before that.

I do find it odd how someone would put so much (apparent) effort into “cleaning” and reprinting a dial, only to get the print itself so terribly wrong.

Just take a look at the H -

Dial code looks fine, until you check the correct alignment against the minute track -

Hard pass.

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The first Grand Seiko with printed logo dial

This is one of those listings that makes you go (and it’s Ok to swear around these parts as long as you save it for special occasions) What. The. Fuck?

For shits and giggles, shall we take a peak and see what the seller says about this one?

“S Grand Seiko first model.
This is a miraculous gem, the earliest model.
The dial is original, but it was never sold.
Although this is a very valuable dial, there are burns and slight stains due to deterioration, but there is no noticeable damage.”

How this guy looks at himself in the mirror every morning without feeling utter contempt for whatever is left of his soul is utterly beyond my comprehension.

I’m gonna kick off a thread in the chat about this one, so let’s have a laugh about it together over there!

Suffice to say for those who have kindly signed up in recent weeks, this chap has form (a lot of it) for selling doctored dials, watches and buckles whilst trying to pass them off as legitimate. Here, pretty much everything is wrong. Indices, dial code, font used to print, caseback medallion, crown…

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Redone coloured dial summary

I close with the usual copy/pasted reminder to steer clear of any vintage Grand Seikos with coloured dials similar to the above. This is not a comprehensive photo - there are many references that get this “treatment”, so be careful out there.

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No time for any typo checking this week. Hopefully there aren’t too many!